Saudade! I watched this film on one of the last nights I was living in Lisbon last year, told to watch it in fact by a crazy Italian 'lesbica', my housemate. Primarily set in Alfalma, the old Moorish district by the Sé on the Tejo, it's a wonderful fim about nothing. Filmed in '94 and set earlier than that it really shows how resistant the Portuguese capital is to change. My favourite part is the rickety 28 tram.