In the southern Carpathians, whole families spend the summer living in improvised camps, setting out at dawn to look for mushrooms and berries. The informal structures of this microcosm form the smallest link in a Europe-wide industrial chain.

Before it reaches your plate, most food goes through a remarkable and frequently distressing journey. Olanda expands on just this: the people, the economy, and the search involved in the picking and selling of mushrooms. From this ennobled livelihood, a great, detailed world sprouts before us.